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Versace Medusa Biggie Cardigan Grey
For her third runway outing at Lacoste, creative director Pelagia Kolotouros looked at the transition of René Lacoste from tennis champion to businessman-about-town. Pinned on her mood board backstage was a snapshot of the brand founder at a dinner with the Rothschilds and designer Jean Patou, dinner jackets and evening dresses all around. Kolotouros used this to inject a more sophisticated tone to the brand, albeit “breaking those boundaries in a very cautious, careful way,” she said backstage before the show at Roland-Garros stadium. That’s not to say her designs are meek. Volumes were bold but remained breezy, from voluminous puffer coats cut in lustrous materials and wide-leg trousers to tennis sweaters or polo shirts elongated into flowing dresses. While glittering embellishments and materials such as technical satins, lush knits and wools gave a luxe feel, Kolotouros had her eye firmly on practicality in the details. Some were visible, such as reflective performance fabrics. Others were not, like the waterproof membrane built into tailored wool trousers or a technical yarn. You May Also Like A deep dark green telegraphed a notion of eveningwear and there was also a fuchsia, used to accent a graphic motif on a sweater but also entire pieces in a trio of outfits. In addition to de rigueur Lacoste codes, Kolotouros has made color a throughline of her tenure so far. Hers walk the fine line between the brights meant to evoke energy and be visible in sporting goods and more sophisticated hues, which she described as a “weird take on heritage and also modernity and sports — like the entanglement of three different entities into one.” With this match between evening and everyday, Kolotouros had another solid serve in her bid to build a more sophisticated side of Lacoste.
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